An old world city: Captivating Karainagar

by Dishan Joseph

There is a resplendent island in the north of Sri Lanka, about 20 km from Jaffna, a peaceful, yet arid paradise. Karainagar (Island of Karai trees) is a destination that effortlessly combines the majesty of the ocean, the splendour of old churches and kovils and a myriad of succulent seafood. As we drive along the causeway that connects the island to the mainland we see green nets on either side of the road, where fishermen wade waist deep in the emerald green water and take in an assortment of fish.

As we near Vallanthalai, one of the first quiet towns, the Northern sun is receding. The strong aroma of fish permeates the air as the local market has drawn her citizens for the day's catch. There is much bargaining, cycles pass by. The bicycle is the most reliable source of transport here and everyone has one.

The houses in Karainagar are built to blend with the natural environment. Trees are retained in the construction process as they offer shade. The daily routine of the people here is all about simply coexisting alongside nature. A refreshing well bath is most welcome. The deep wells produce water that has a mild flavour of lime, and amazingly, many species of plants have adapted to this water. The sea breeze gently drifts into the homes, where windows remain open as there is no threat of theft.

Even though gates are closed, they are not locked. It is a classic example of perfect social integration as people have lived in harmony for generations and know each other.

I wake up next morning to the crowing of the roosters. My kind host proudly announces that he is going to serve one of these birds for lunch. I feel mildly embarrassed that my presence has warranted the death of a majestic foul. Even as the sun's radiant rays begin to paint the morning sky, my friend has skillfully cut and dressed the rooster. After breakfast, we head towards our first stop, the 160-year-old church belonging to the CACM (Church of American Ceylon Mission).

Sailed

The CACM has been active in the Northern Province for centuries. Bold and dedicated missionaries had sailed thousands of miles to come and establish schools and hospitals in these parts. During those bygone times they taught English and other social skills to the humble island folk. The church built in 1855, today stands in much neglect, with its bell covered in rust. I was surprised when the gate was opened by a foreign lady priest! Rev. Susan Jepsen, a resident of Boston has been here for the past two years. The church key is an antique. The top of the key has a brass design where one can insert three fingers for a good grip. A few feet away is a large manmade pond with steps leading downwards, similar to the ponds found in the temples of Varanasi.

A few hundred yards away the Gopuram (tower) of the Sivan Kovil reaches out to the clouds. The temple is a riot of colour as murals adorn its walls, and two rock statues of Hindu deity stand defiantly at the entrance. An old, bare bodied priest is offering incense within the inner chamber of this sanctum, while a herd of goats has sought solace in the large garden.

We proceed from here to the jetty. Karainagar is also home to a naval garrison. The sailors of SLN Elara are a part of this community. From the jetty, I see the old Fort, rising out of the blue waters. Originally built by the Portuguese it was named Fortaleza Real (Fort Royal). After the Dutch invasion it was renamed as Fort Hammenhiel. The Fort had a prison with 9 large dungeons. Today, the restored Fort is operated as a luxury accommodation by the Navy. Three old canons stand like a silent sentinel looking towards the horizon. As we wait patiently for the ferry to arrive, a group of old men are seen smoking rolled dry tobacco leaves, indeed a primitive cigarette. The ferry arrives, which connects Karainagar to the island of Kayts. The ferry ride takes only 10 minutes. The sturdy iron boat can even carry motorbikes, three wheelers and a tractor! Many schoolchildren are dependent on this seaborne ride to get to school.

The island of Katys is like a page from a travel magazine. Two Naval sentries smile as we pass by, and a row of shops display ancient wooden doors, with carved trellice work on the topmost part. The Tamil name boards have been painted by a steady artistic hand. Old lamps are suspended on the wooden ceiling.

There are two old churches here, a church dedicated to St.James and a shrine to honor St.Anthony. A small shop sells products based on palmyrah. The palmyrah tree has become a symbol of resilient hope for these people. There is much room for improvement to market and sell these items, which can be transformed into a productive cottage industry, as the women folk of both islands have very limited employment in other trades.

Sight

We return to Karainagar, and as we travel by road I pick up the distant silhouette of a large bullock cart. The sight of the cart is so lovely, a sight you can never witness in Colombo. Two large bulls have been yoked together, and a man rides with much pomp sporting a white moustache, and grins at me displaying betel stained teeth. Another well bath precedes lunch, as the departed rooster lay immersed in a bed of curry. Dessert is mothakam, a steamed dumpling filled with grated coconut, green gram and jaggery. It goes down well with a cup of coffee infused with coriander. That evening, we visit an old eating house named 'Sellamuthu Suvayagam' (suvayagam is the Tamil word for a café). We inquire from the well nourished cashier if we can buy paal appam (hoppers laden with sweetened coconut milk). He requests us to come the next morning by 6am.

As we head towards the café in the morning, I see a convoy of bicycles. The citizens of Vallanthalai are going to fill their larger gallons with drinking water, which is a precious resource on the island. Steps must be taken by the authorities to ensure that drinking water is available to every home. It would then be a testament to sustainable development. Mineral water bottles are sold to outsiders as Kolumbu thanni (water from Colombo). We encounter more cycles as teachers and students cycle to school, which I believe keeps them very fit. The entire town is in a sense connected to the Post Office which serves as an information hub. We go in search of dried fish, but the only two shops that sell this local relish are closed for the day. Towards evening, I witness older men walking in groups, and am told they are going in search of toddy, a local delight that invigorates these hard working souls. Karainagar is indeed an enchanting and serene island.

(The writer wishes to thank Vincent Rajkumar of Karainagar Post Office for accompanying him on his travel throughout the island)