What’s in your lipstick?:

The dirty beauty secret that could make you ugly

by Dushani Palliyaguru

Spending time and money to look good is certainly a luxury for most people in the world. But, for some of us, from the moment we wake up to the time we go to sleep, we continuously make an effort to look and feel our best, often assisted by a large array of cosmetics. Soap, shampoo, toothpaste, body wash, deodorant, lipstick, foundation, mascara, eye-liner, eye-shadow, shaving cream, after-shave, perfume, cologne are just a few to name.

With rapid advancements made in fields associated with designing new chemicals, the cosmetics industry too has grown and is currently one that generates the highest revenue in several countries around the world.

However, hiding behind these very familiar and friendly names which we assume to be cleansing, exfoliating, refreshing and beautifying are some very hazardous chemicals.

The culprits

Cosmetics are formulations of several dozens of chemicals. While safety testing of each individual compound is an absolute must, several caveats exist, mostly in developing nations where regulatory standards are more lax. The simplest type of shampoo, for example consists of chemicals that produce lather, cleans, and provides fragrance. Lipstick contains wax, dyes, preservatives, anti-bacterial agents and so on.

Even though these chemicals appear safe in the short run because they do not produce any skin allergies and itching, there are several emerging concerns over the long-term safety of some of the chemicals used in cosmetics.

Due to mounting evidence that butylated compounds such as butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) (widely used in lip products, hair products, deodorant and makeup as a preservative) is an endocrine disruptor, the function of cross-reacting with human hormones, the European Union prohibited its use in fragrances. BHA is also listed as a possible human carcinogen by the International Agency for Research in Cancer. In other words, there are scientific studies that suggest that it may cause cancer.

Another common preservative used in lotions, shampoos as well as other makeup items is parabens. It is banned in the European Union as research has shown the possibility for it to cause hormonal disruptions that has been linked to breast cancer. Phthalates, a solvent present in countless products has been long-associated with issues with the male reproductive system, breast cancer, and developmental problems in children. Some phthalates have been banned from children’s toys in the United States since 2008, but they remain as an ingredient in many plastic goods as well as cosmetics around the world. In addition to the aforementioned chemicals, formaldehyde, polyethylene glycol (PEG), triclosan, siloxane and octinoxate are a few other chemicals with questionable safety.

Besides the chemical constituents themselves, cosmetics can also be contaminated with other unwelcome chemicals. Heavy metals such as lead have been found repeatedly in some types of lipsticks which raises another red flag about their safety. Whether these contaminants are introduced involuntarily during the manufacturing process or if they are forcibly brought in as a means of adulteration is often not revealed. Other than contamination, heavy metals such as chromium are also used as colorants in nail polish due to their bright hues. Chromium has been associated with tumor formation at low doses as well as with immune toxicity.

One of the arguments presented against cosmetics posing a threat to human health is that most of these harmful chemicals are present only in small amounts. Furthermore, the absence of scientific data about the long-term effects of these chemicals weakens the case. Nevertheless, manufacturers are increasingly being

held responsible for proving the safety of their products, by means of fair, scientific procedures not only by governmental agencies but also by consumer advocate groups.

The role of labeling

It is imperative that all cosmetics come with a well-detailed label of ALL the ingredients and their quantities so that customers are aware of what they are exposed to. In addition, directions for safe use and warnings should also be listed. In this light, establishing a national labeling standard for cosmetics products would be useful.

An important point for caution is the prevalence of cosmetics labeled “herbal” or “natural” which are also typically products that don’t disclose the specific chemical constituents and hide behind the safe label.

Including plant-based agents in a product does not guarantee that it is free of harmful compounds and is therefore safe for human consumption.

The truth is that producing any type of cosmetic unavoidably requires a hodgepodge of chemicals. The best bet here for any manufacturer is to fulfill his or her corporate responsibility of disclosing all the information that maybe pertinent to the health of the consumer. On the other hand, consumers should demand to know what is present in their products.

Another significant concern lies in several different chemicals getting lumped into the “fragrance” category in labels. Fragrance is considered to be a trade secret so companies often times do not disclose what it includes.

However, it usually contains an amalgamation of several substances. One such chemical is methyl cellosolve, a solvent commonly found in anti-aging products. It has been banned in Canada and restricted in the European Union as it may damage to the nervous system and cause DNA mutations.

Alternatives that can work

Regulating chemicals is a must. For a country such as Sri Lanka, which is at the early stages of industrialization, it is even more important. It is recommended that firm regulations are imposed on production and import of chemicals with currently existing bans and those that are classified as hazardous by health and environmental agencies worldwide.

Furthermore, separate national guidelines should be established and adhered to for foreign cosmetics that are imported and distributed by local agents, which seems to be the case with most cosmetics found in the Sri Lankan market.

Activists around the world are pushing for products that do not contain some of the above chemicals. New shampoos and other hair-care products that are free of sulfates, parabens and BHAs have been in the Western market for a few years now and many large brands are increasingly introducing products to match this trend. L’Oreal’s sulfate-free shampoo is one example of this. The main drawback of going chemical-free is ironically, high costs. Most of the low chemical or organic cosmetics found in the market today are far more expensive than their chemical-containing counterparts.

The story for safe cosmetics in developing nations is not yet optimistic. While cosmetics are still widely seen as a luxury and rare commodity for most populations in such countries, cheaper and low-quality cosmetics are gradually making their way through to the most remote parts of the world.

Open economic markets, negligent regulations on chemical import and production and the lack of public awareness makes the challenge more severe for these countries.

The high costs associated with cosmetics that have lesser harmful chemicals make it tougher to be introduced in low-income countries.

Therefore, producing safer and novel alternatives locallywill certainly prove beneficial. Eventually, the solution needs to be provided from within, via strong public awareness, corporate responsibility and strict government supervision.

Dushani Palliyaguru is a doctoral student at the Department of Environmental and Occupational Health, University of Pittsburgh, USA.